natural hair care tips

The Care & Feeding of a Happy Natural Head

I often get emails asking advice about how to care for natural, highly textured hair. Oyin goodies are excellent for hair types from tightly nappy to loosely waved, and were initially developed by the Mixtress for use on her extremely coily/tightly curled, happily-nappy hair. This is a hair type often maligned in African-American culture, encouraged to straighten or perm, and otherwise underappreciated. I happen to love and cherish it, and wanted to create products that nourished and protected it with love.

The result was a set of luxurious natural products that are excellent for any hair type; including dry, frizzy, thirsty, chemically overtreated, delicate, highly textured, or in need of natural pampering. Here are a couple of tips that have helped me nourish my previously misunderstood hair to optimum health through patience, gentle care, and Oyin products. ;-)

1. Slippery When Wet

Treat your hair as if it's delicate and precious because, well. It is. The more bends, curves, kinks and angles in your hair, the more opportunities for a comb or brush to catch or snag or snap. If your hair is weak, or dry, it's even more prone to breakage. The answer? Detangle hair only when wet. Just after a shower, or even better, IN the shower. Best of all, detangle while hair is loaded with conditioner.

2. Wash & Dry In Sections

My thick, nappy curls are easier to detangle when in 2-4 sections. I wet my whole head, cleanse each section separately, then rinse. Then I apply a thick coat of conditioner, and brush it through each section with my shower brush - any flexible brush with widely spaced bristles will do. I work from ends to roots, and use a clip or a loose braid or twist to hold each section after I'm done.

3. Moisturize and Style Gently

Keeping hair moisturized and the ends protected are two great tips for healthy hair. When my whole head is washed, conditioned, and detangled, I rinse lightly, spray each section with a little greg juice, pull some whipped pudding through the ends, squeeze tightly in a towel, and then I'm done. If I plan to wear it out, i will apply shine and define at this stage to cut down on frizzies and help it hold its texture. Then, i let my hair air-dry in a few buns, bands, or braids. The more sections there are, the quicker they dry. Generally, though, it's an overnight thing. Once it's dry, I loosen the knots or braids, fluff it up, and usually pull back into a puff or two. Allowing hair to air-dry instead of applying direct heat is one way to treat hair gently

To change hairstlyes or just refresh my hair in between washes or rinses, I use the Greg Juice again to moisten it and make it more eager to move around.

4. "No-Poo"

This term comes from Lorraine Massey's book "Curly Gurl", which suggests that shampoo, which usually includes detergents SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) or ALS (Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate), can strip hair and scalp of its healthy natural oils, and roughen the cuticle. Thus they are not the best choice for curly heads worldwide. Instead, the author suggests that hair be cleaned with conditioner instead, with vigorous scalp massage & thorough rinsing taking the place of harsh detergents for scalp cleansing.

Trust me. It works.

If you use styling products or have buildup, however, conditioner alone isn't gonna cut it. Here are two ways to clarify hair w/out shampoo.

1. Use a detergent-free shampoo like Oyin's Grand Poo Bar when your hair needs extra cleansing.

2. Mix a tablespoon or so of Baking Soda into about 1/2 cup of conditioner. Work through as you would a normal conditioner wash, then rinse. Result = squeaky clean hair & scalp w/out stripping your strands. Follow with a mild rinse of water with just a splash of apple cider vinegar, to return hair to its mildly acidic base state, close the cuticle, and enhance shine.

5. Protective Styling

To keep highly textured hair from becoming tangled, dry, or damaged by environmental forces like wind, extreme temperatures, or wool coat collars (smile), many people choose to style their hair in ways that protect their tresses from the elements. Wearing 'tucked-in' styles is also a tried and true method for retaining hair growth for all hair textures, because ends that are protected - in a bun, a braid, a twist, or a roll - are less likely to break or split. Some protective styles include:

1. Cornrows - these flat braided styles are just perfect for low-profile hats, and for remaining neat for long periods of time. They can also be rinsed or even washed to extend the life of the style.

2. Twists - made with either two strands of hair (double-strand twists), or twisted around a finger or comb (comb coils, finger coils), twists are a versatile, attractive protective style. They can be styled into an updo or ponytail, or easily accessorized with barrettes, a headband, a pretty scarf, or decorated hairpins.

3. Individual braids - These may take a long time to put in and take down, but they often have an even longer life span than twists. Plus, they can be washed or rinsed more readily without as much tendency to tangle or lock.

4. Buns. These classic knots protect the ends of hair by simply being tucked in. Position low at the nape, high on the crown, or wherever you like!

6. Special Events

1. All The Trimmings - it's a good idea to periodically trim your hair to keep your ends healthy and free of splits. Split ends cause your hair to frizz more, and break off more easily during handling. So although it may seem counterintuitive, regular trimming can actually help you to retain more length as your hair grows! Get your hair trimmed professionally if you like, or invest in a pair of barber's shears and trim it yourself. For years i kept my ends healthy by snipping 1/4 to 1/2 an inch off the ends of my 2-strand twists as i styled them.

2. Taking It Deeper. From time to time your hair may be acting particularly thirsty - a good time for a deep conditioning treatment. A pre-cleansing deep conditioner can be as simple as slathering your moist hair with your favorite conditioner, covering in plastic cap or a warm towel, and letting it sink in for an hour before your cleansing. You can make it more nourishing/moisturizing by adding a dollop of honey, a TB or two of extra virgin olive oil or coconut oil. You can add protein by adding a whipped egg or egg yolk.